BornAgain: Black Cod Miso
A collaboration between Mark Spivak and Jeffrey Merrihue of Xtreme Foodies -Mark Spivak
This “Born Again” series is dedicated to legendary dishes that were invented or popularized by a famous chef. The reason for “Again” is that all these invention stories are disputed - which makes for good storytelling.
In this series, we will collaborate with wine specialists for the perfect pairing. Today’s dish Is Black Cod Miso from Nobu and our guest wine expert is Mark Spivak from Eat, Drink, Journey
Nobu’s Black Cod Miso from Matsuhisa
Black cod with miso is so prevalent around the world it is hard to imagine someone actually invented it. Nobu Matsuhisa has changed the face of modern global dining more than any other chef alive, having almost single-handedly popularized Asian fusion around the world. It all started at the modest Matsuhisa in glitzy Beverley Hills. He pioneered numerous fusion gems like Yellow Tail Sashimi with Jalapeños, Sashimi salad with Matsuhisa soy sauce dressing and squid pasta with Light Garlic Sauce - But it was Black Cod Miso that changed everything.
Epic video from Nobu Matsuhisa describing Black Cod Miso
New York’s restaurant critic Adam Platt says.
Certain dishes are like that famous obelisk in Kubrick’s 2001: A Space Odyssey, When it lands in their midst, the apes have never seen anything like it, and they are changed forever. Miso cod was one of those dishes. As it happens, Nobu’s glazed fish benefits from two strokes of real genius. The first is that the kitchen crisps each filet to a perfect amber caramel — diners get a dish that’s obviously been cooked, a great gateway for customers who were still wary of sushi back in 1994. The other is that the marinade itself is decidedly sweet, thanks to mirin and sugar, which appeals to the notoriously fickle American palate. On top of all that, the fermented aspects of mirin and miso contribute booming, glutamate-rich flavors to the small plate. “The taste,” Matsuhisa says, “is a lot of umamis.”
And here I found myself at Nobu London arguing with Nobu about the merits of Burgundy white with sushi while he tried to convince me that Sake was a better match
Nobu Prefers Sake
So I say white Burgundy - Nobu says Sake. What does wine Master extraordinaire Mr. Spivak have to say?
I hate to blow the whistle on a chef as gifted as Nobu Matsuhisa, but I agree with Jeffrey. From a referee’s point of view, Nobu is offside here—he’s charging ahead with the pairing most comfortable to him. I’d choose a Premier or Grand Cru Chablis, because the acidity would balance the buttery texture of the fish. Sake generally has a low acid level. Looking at the pictures of Jeffrey’s future dad down below, I’d hate to call him in to settle the dispute.
Well seems sacrilegious to side with me - Nobu is the Jedi Master and I am like Peter Rabbit - but hey! I’ll take it for the win 🤣 Thanks Mark!
Fusion Parents inspired by Nobu’s Black Cod Miso
This dish is a fusion between Japanese and Peruvian cuisines known as Nikkei which inspires me to be reborn in my next life as the lovechild of a beautiful mermaid and a strong Centaur. Meet my future parents:
This series is about Origins - check out my other series about The Last Supper Bone Marrow Pie in LA! See you next time on the origin series. I am thinking about something in Asia!
