Pimm's Cup: The Rites of Spring
Pimm’s Cup is proof that premixed cocktails just won’t go away, even though no one admits to drinking them. They were rarely stylish in America, since they conjured up images of brown bags, bums, and convenience store parking lots; in this age of designer libations, they seem to suggest laziness, as well as a lack of imagination and taste. Even so, they’ve turned up over the years like the unwanted dinner guest.
Probably the closest we came to embracing the premixed cocktail in the U.S. was the wine cooler craze of the 1980s. Ernest Gallo is generally regarded as the inventor of the drink; he blended wine with fruit juice and soda and launched Bartles & James, a concoction sweeter than table wine and with a lower alcohol content (4-7%, depending on the flavor). It became a sensation and accounted for nearly 20% of all wine sales during the decade, also helping to ease an oversupply of wine in California at the time.
In the U.K., though, Pimm’s Cup has been a fixture of society for two centuries. It started in 1823, when James Pimm began serving a concoction of gin, quinine and herbs at his central London oyster bar. Commercial production began in the 1850s, and by the turn of the century there was a chain of Pimm’s Oyster Houses in the English capital. In addition to the original (known as Pimm’s No. 1 Cup), the company produced five other mixtures in its heyday: No. 2 (Scotch), No. 3 (brandy), No. 4 (rum), No. 5 (rye) and No. 6 (vodka).
There’s something about a Pimm’s Cup that exudes a feeling of spring. Perhaps it’s the soft, lilting feeling of the drink itself, or the imposing garnishes (citrus, strawberries, cucumber, mint and fresh basil leaves). It might be the addition of the gin, which helps balance the sweetness. It’s well worth trying at this time of year (contrary to popular belief, foregoing your Aperol Spritz or glass of Whispering Angel for one day won’t automatically transform you into an unsophisticated peasant).
Pimm’s was purchased by Diageo in 2006. The No. 1 Cup is a staple, but the only others currently made are a variation on No. 3 (called Pimm’s Winter Cup) and a small amount of No. 6. Still, Pimm’s Cup remains a stylish drink in the U.K. It is popular at Wimbledon and the Henley Royal Regatta and is customarily served at polo matches both here and in England. It is sometimes mixed with Champagne (called a Pimm’s Royal Cup), and frequently blended with ginger ale or lemonade.
So what is it, exactly? The ingredients are a mystery, supposedly shared among only six people in the world (don’t ask, lest they kill you). We know it contains gin, but there’s no indication of how much or what type. Quinine is a component, as well as an unspecified blend of herbs. Most sources say that a liqueur is involved, but the composition of the liqueur is never revealed. On top of that, the terminology is confusing: In the opinion of most experts, the bottled version of Pimm’s No. 1 only becomes a Pimm’s Cup when other ingredients are added. Most recipes call for the addition of soda (ginger ale, club soda, Sprite or tonic) and fruit (usually slices of lemon, lime or orange). Some versions include a few dashes of Angostura bitters and an additional shot of gin.
There are as many recipes for it as there are for steak and kidney pie, but here are the basics:
One part Pimms No. 1
Two parts lemonade
Cucumber spears, mint leaves, basil leaves, strawberries, orange and lemon slices
Pour the Pimm’s into a Collins glass. Add lemonade and (if desired) a splash of club soda or Sprite. Stir, but do not shake. Garnish with cucumber, mint leaves and fruit. For a Pimm’s Royal, use Champagne in place of the lemonade.
Note: the modern Pimm’s No.1 is bottled at 50 proof, or 25% alcohol by volume, while older versions contained much higher levels of alcohol. Be careful not to add too much mixer or ice, which will dilute the drink; conversely, be cautious with recipes that call for more gin, which may turn a lovely spring day into a blur.
