Reinventing the American Steakhouse

Fusion cuisine and molecular gastronomy are relatively new, but the steakhouse has been with us forever. Chop houses were ubiquitous in both Elizabethan England and Colonial America, and slabs of roasted meat have been the centerpiece of communal meals since families dwelt in caves.

Up until recently, the American steakhouse hadn’t changed much in over a century. Their predictability was a large part of their appeal: the comfortable atmosphere of a men’s club served as the backdrop for shellfish appetizers and huge steaks. By the late 20^th century California Cabernet had replaced whiskey as the drink of choice, and astronomical prices were supported by a steady stream of expense accounts.

Today a diner is more likely to find a wider range of menu items (including more sustainable and locally sourced seafood), personal service, a large, eclectic wine list and décor that embraces contemporary taste. Jeff Ruby is at the forefront of all those trends. Rather than a chain such as Morton’s or Ruth’s Chris, the six Jeff Ruby restaurants are family-owned and managed with scrupulous attention to detail.

The Nashville branch has the same Art Deco interior as the others, a fantasy world of bright colors, nostalgic posters and crystal chandeliers. The well-spaced tables are simply but luxuriously appointed. From the moment you step inside, every aspect of the place is geared toward convincing you that your experience will be exceptional.

We’re used to high-quality ingredients in restaurants like this, but Jeff Ruby is off the charts. You can make a sushi bar out of this place if you want to, with delicacies like otoro and a selection of designer rolls. All the beef is USDA Prime, the seafood is the best available, and the Japanese Wagyu is marbled and tender enough to be cut with a spoon. As a result, there’s not much here that resembles a bargain. A Japanese A5 Wagyu Filet Mignon is $178, and the Prime filet mignon and lobster tail combo is a mere $120. Appetizers such as the Colossal Shrimp Cocktail will cost $27 for three tiger shrimp, and a side order of grilled asparagus will set you back $15. Not only do they get away with it, but the prices even seem reasonable when you taste the food.

In a word, the service is outstanding. The staff is friendly, outgoing and attentive to detail. They are either thrilled to be working there or very adept at pretending to be (and after calculating 20% of the prices, it’s probably the former). They possess the self-confidence of knowing there’s a quality product behind them, and they conduct themselves in a relaxed and cheerful manner.

The wine list is lengthy, with an emphasis on California (including the inevitable, voluminous Cabernet and Blends section), along with an impressive range of wines by the glass. Markups are on the high side and have escalated sharply in recent years. If you’re looking to quibble with Jeff Ruby, this would be your opportunity: it’s nearly impossible to find a bottle of Cabernet under $100, and snapping one up under $150 isn’t easy either. A better selection of Bordeaux and Burgundy would be nice for the occasional wine geek, but there’s no evidence it would sell to the average diner.

After-dinner options begin with above-average renditions of classic desserts (cheesecake, carrot cake, crème brulée), move on to a good selection of dessert wines and single malts, and culminate in a comprehensive list of whiskey and bourbon. Best of all are the Ricotta Doughnuts: warm and fluffy, and served with a trio of sauces (mixed berries, mocha anglaise and bourbon anglaise). You’ll be grateful Homer Simpson isn’t there to share them.

In sum: The American steakhouse may have been reinvented, but it hasn’t gotten any cheaper. Then again, neither has anything else.