The Greatest Champagnes You've Never Heard Of

Every year, the major Champagne houses spend untold millions on branding. They do it because it works: by ceaselessly linking their product to images of celebration, sophistication and the good life, they ensure that the average consumer will reach for their label in a moment of uncertainty. Since the big houses are notoriously secretive about production numbers, we have no idea how much is made each year, but we can guess: To have your product stocked on the shelves of every wine shop, supermarket and convenience store on the planet, you’re probably cranking out millions of cases.

When it comes to the luxury cuvées, the branding is even stronger and the urge to reach for the bottle is nearly irresistible. There’s nothing wrong with Dom Pérignon or Cristal (meaning that if you offered me a glass, I’d certainly drink it). Yet there are lesser-known brands producing wines that are just as good, if not better, provided you know where to look:

Perhaps the least known of all the great Champagnes, Philipponnat Clos des Goisses (2012, $295) was the first single-vineyard wine to be crafted in the region. A blend of 61% Pinot Noir and 39% Chardonnay, it is harvested from a steep hillside with an incline of 45 degrees (colloquially, Clos des Goisses means “the hill of hard labor”). Aged for eight years in bottle before release, it is a powerful Champagne that can accompany wild game, truffles, caviar and cheese.

A 50/50 blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, Palmes d’Or is Nicolas Feuillatte’s luxury cuvée (2008, $185), packaged in a distinctive and unique bottle design. Composed of grapes from eight Grand Cru vineyards, the wine explodes with flavors of brioche, freshly sliced apples, citrus zest and densely packed red fruits. Feel free to cellar it, as it will gain in complexity with time.

Somewhere along the line, Charles Heidsieck became one of the forgotten Champagnes, despite a level of quality that exceeds most of the major houses. In the early 1980s, the cellar master decided to reserve the very best Chardonnay for a cuvée called Blanc des Millénaires. Only a handful of vintages have been produced: 1983, 1985, 1990, 1994, 2004, 2006 ($225) and the newest release, 2014 ($235). It is a remarkable Champagne—rich, creamy, and sensual, providing the essence of Grand Cru Chardonnay.

Billecart-Salmon launched Cuvée Nicolas François in 1964 to commemorate the founder of the house, and 18 vintages have been released since then. 2013 ($155) an exercise in hedonism, a deep and rich Champagne that makes a singular statement on the palate. Tart citrus flavors are framed by mouth-watering acidity, and the mid palate reveals glorious notes of wild strawberries and red raspberries. Known for wines that are fresh rather than powerful, Billecart-Salmon has flown under the radar and remained a guarded secret for most Champagne lovers.

Speaking of closely guarded secrets, Egly-Ouriet is probably the most sought-after grower Champagne in the region, although Francis Egly feels his true competition lies in Burgundy. He departs from the region’s conventional wisdom by harvesting exceptionally ripe grapes from old vines, and ages the wines for up to 10 years before release. His 2015 Grand Cru Brut ($410) is a good example of “Burgundy with bubbles”: sumptuous, intense, complex and meticulously crafted.

No survey of the rarest Champagnes would be complete without mention of Krug Clos de Mesnil. Made exclusively from Chardonnay grapes grown in a walled, 4.5-acre vineyard dating to 1698, it is rich, deep and delightful on the palate, with luscious fruit and pinpoint acidity. Prices are dependent on vintage, ranging from roughly $1,000 (2003 and 2008) to nearly $4,000 (1988 and 1996). I was fortunate enough to drink it several times at dinners hosted by the Court of Master Sommeliers.

While stunning on their own, the above bottles tend to be better with food. In France, of course, Champagne is more of an everyday drink than a special occasion splurge. If you haven’t yet made your New Year’s resolutions, here’s one to consider: Drink more Champagne

Postscript:

I received some reader feedback concerning a perceived snarkiness in my comments about Dom Pérignon, so I thought I’d set the record straight. I was never a fan, but an encounter in 2006 turned my perception of the wine on its head. Vincent Chaperon, who had joined Möet et Chandon in 1999 and had recently begun working with chef de cave Richard Geoffrey, was traveling around the country doing a series of private tastings by appointment. When he came to Palm Beach, I thought it would be interesting to meet him.

Chaperon was tasting the 1990 and 2000 vintages of Dom Pérignon Rosé from the Oenothèque series (now called Plénitude), Champagne that had been held back for additional aging in the cellars before release. It turned out to be one of the most profound experiences of my career. Here are my notes, from a piece titled Dynamic Tension and Sheer Brilliance:

Chaperon is an intriguing young man who is a self-described risk taker. In his spare time, he enjoys sailing on the Mediterranean, and he views the creation of Dom Pérignon as an existential challenge.

"Storms come up very quickly when you're sailing," he says. "Making Dom Pérignon is similar. You have to trust your instincts, draw on your experience, and make a series of quick decisions. Tension is very important in life. You can't improve unless you are challenged. This is our philosophy at Dom Pérignon—we are always on the edge, always seeking to go to the next level."

Specifically, the tension in Chaperon's winemaking life comes from the difficulty of finding the perfect balance between Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. "This doesn't exist, of course," he laughs, "but we have to try. We are playing with tension on the palate. We're always looking for a seamless transition in the wine, from the attack through the palate and onto the finish."

In the wine world, the proof is in the bottle, and the 2000 Rosé ($350) is more than impressive. It has a pale salmon color and a profound, yeasty nose with scents of red fruits. It is full-bodied and elegant in the mouth, with expansive flavors of wild strawberry and red raspberry. The most remarkable aspect of the wine is its finish—rich and haunting, it seems to continue for a full minute.

As good as it is, the 2000 pales next to the 1990 Oenotheque Rosé ($1100). This wine has an amazing nose of pastry dough, tropical fruits and candied red berries, along with whiffs of mushroom and truffle. It is intense and complex on the palate, with unfolding layers of rhubarb and red fruits---an incredible Champagne, virtually perfect. And the finish? I'm still thinking about it, and that's what I call length.

(2024 note: Those prices would be cheap by today’s standards)